The Chettinad region in Tamil Nadu comprises over 75 villages located within the present-day Pudukkottai and Sivaganga districts. Among these, Karaikudi stands out as the largest village and is commonly regarded as the capital of Chettinad. In tourism discussions, the terms “Chettinad” and “Karaikudi” are often used interchangeably.
Why visit Karaikudi or the Chettinad Region?
This region has so much to offer, from cultural heritage and architectural marvels to handicrafts, antiques, and finger-licking cuisine. There is something for everyone.
What’s the history behind this region?
Nattukottai Chettiars, originally hailing from Andhra Pradesh, were invited by the Chola King to settle in the highlands of Tamil Nadu. As a prominent merchant community, they engaged in the trade of precious stones, and wood, as well as money-lending. Establishing connections with the elite of the Chola lineage, they garnered societal significance and amassed considerable wealth through successful ventures.
Their business endeavours spanned the globe, and adopting a true globe-trotter spirit, they imported the finest materials from various corners of the world to construct opulent mansions, reminiscent of palaces. However, during World War 2, their enterprises suffered substantial losses, prompting many Chettiars to relocate from the region in pursuit of more lucrative opportunities, often abroad. This brings us to the present-day Chettinad region, characterised by a mix of meticulously maintained palatial mansions and dilapidated structures that serve as poignant reminders of the area’s rich history.
Where is Karaikudi?
The primary hub of the Chettinad region is Karaikudi, situated in the Sivaganga district of Tamil Nadu. Located 430 kilometres from Bangalore and 420 kilometres from Chennai, Karaikudi has excellent connectivity to major South Indian cities.
How to reach Karaikudi?
Road: You can easily reach Karaikudi by road from either Bangalore or Chennai, and the drive typically takes less than 7 hours, with a few short breaks.
Train: Direct trains connect Karaikudi to major cities like Bangalore, Chennai, and Madurai.
Flight: The nearest airport is in Trichy. Upon arrival, you can conveniently hire a cab to reach your accommodation.
How to plan a trip to Chettinad?
Here’s the perfect weekend itinerary for you –
Day 1 – Arrive and savour the Chettinad cuisine Arrive at your chosen stay by lunchtime and indulge in a traditional Chettinad meal. If you’re looking for an exceptional experience, consider staying at The Bangala, home to their restaurant which is ranked among the Top 20 in India. Don’t miss out on their homemade ice cream during your extensive lunch and dinner. Spend the evening relaxing, delving into books on Chettiar history. This will give you the much-needed context for your explorations on Day 2.
Day 2 – Exploring Athangudi, Kanadukathan and more After a hearty breakfast, venture towards Athangudi, a village in the Chettinad region. Begin your exploration at the Athangudi Palace, a well-maintained mansion. Take some time to understand the history behind the various things that make this mansion, the Athangudi Tiles, Italian Marble, Burma Teak Wood, Chinese Wall Tiles, French Colour Stained Glass and more. Every part of the house tells a story.
Next, visit one of the many tile manufacturing plants nearby to witness the making of the famous Athangudi tiles. The craftsmen here will be more than happy to show you around and help you understand the various processes that go into making these stunning tiles. They even let you keep one as a souvenir.
Next, consider exploring the Chidambara Vilas, a heritage property that has beautifully preserved the Chettinad culture. Do ask the host to show you the rooftop so you can get an understanding of the vastness of this mansion.
Move on to Kanadukathan, known for its many heritage homes and photo ops amid the many run-down mansions. Explore mansions like SASTM Heritage House, VVR Heritage House, CVRM Heritage House, and more.
You can treat yourself to a full meal at The Vadhyars’s Cafe. Wrap up your day with a visit to CGH Earth’s Visalam for a delightful cup of coffee. CGH takes such good care of their properties, everything is thought through, everything has a reason to exist, and we absolutely fell in love. We spent the rest of the evening, playing board games. Ended the day with another, large heavy meal at The Bangala.
Day 3 – Antiques Exploration After a leisurely start following that hectic previous day, plan to visit the Kraikudi Antiques Market today. On Mueeswaran Koil Street, find timeless antiques, each with the owner’s name and a date inscribed, providing a glimpse into Chettiar daughters’ dowries. Take your time exploring the treasure trove, appreciating the quality and history behind them. We spent a good hour or so, hopping from one shop to the other, finding treasures that we could marvel at.
If you have some more time to explore, you can add these amazing places to your itinerary –
Thirumayam Fort – Built by the Pallavas in the 9th Century, this fort boasts of caves, intricate carvings and temples dedicated to both Shiva and Vishnu.
Terracotta Horse Temple or Andavar Solai Temple – Just 15 minutes from Kanadukathan, this temple has countless Terracotta horses that adorn the perimeter of the temple. The belief is that donating a horse to the temple is a way of asking for a boon from the beloved God.
What is special in Karaikudi or Chettinad?
Athangudi Tiles – A speciality of this region, these tiles look very much like mosaic tiles, but they are hand-made over glass surfaces. They extremely durable and cost-efficient. Plus, it is said that their sheen increases with time.
Chettinad Cuisine – The cuisine is loved for its complexity of flavours and freshly ground masalas. The food is spicy and aromatic, leaves a lingering smell on your fingers.
Chettinad Sarees – Locally women on handlooms, these sarees have distinctive patterns and contrasting colours. Plus, it uses a special kind of weave that gives a very supple look to the sarees.
Antiques Market – Many of the Chettiar families left their belongings and move abroad, resulting in their ware finding its way to antiques market. These items ranging from a cigarette box to teak wood swings are up for sale and you’ll find some great treasures here.
Where to stay in Karaikudi?
There is no dearth of options to stay in Karaikudi or the surrounding villages. Pick one that suits your budget and liking.
Is Ola/Uber available in Karaikudi?
Not when we visited. But, there are plenty of rickshaws that you can hail. Your hotel staff should be able to arrange a trusted auto-driver or cab for you.
Winding Roads & Pages 
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