If you haven’t already read the other parts of this series, here is the link :
1. The Mountains are Calling – Bangalore to Leh
2. Udaipur – Jaipur – Agra – Delhi – Amritsar
3. Manali to Leh – The Land of High Passes

DAY 13:

Leh:

With the widest smile on my face, I walked out of our room and I couldn’t believe the sheer amount of happiness I was feeling. It was surreal. In the far off distance, I could see the Shanti Stupa with the barren rugged mountains filling the background, Khardungla on one side and Stok Kangri range on the other side. To witness that kind of brazen beauty is something not everyone is entitled to.

One of my friends had fallen seriously sick by now, so we had to take him to the hospital. After some oxygen and some meds, he went right back to sleep. We spent almost half the day in the room recovering from the previous day’s journey and of course acclimatizing. We had skipped breakfast since we woke up late and were all famished by lunch time. The piping hot Momos and the delicious noodles were to die for. Honestly drooling as I write this. For someone who hated momos, this was a pleasant shocker. 😛

After lazing around for some more time, we decided to head to Leh Palace. The former seat of the Royal Family of Ladakh overlooking the entire town of Leh. It is in a dilapidated condition now but somehow still has a charm that attracts you. It is said to be modeled after the Patola Palace with dark forgotten rooms and wooden balconies. It is a surreal beauty worth visiting. It also gives you one of the best views of Leh City.

We then headed to the Leh Market for more eating. I’ll tell you one thing, there are two types of travelers in Leh – ones who become total foodies and will eat anything they can lay hands on and ones who will be sick from the altitude and will avoid even the smell of food. I became the former kind. 😛 We visited a number of small eateries in the market and finally headed off to taste the ever famous Yak Cheese. We ordered the Yak Cheese Pizza and it was superiorly tasty, although some of my friends did not like it. I guess it is not everyone’s cup of tea, but I found it chewy and thick and rich in flavor and smell. Must try! We then sampled various pies and cakes from the famous German Bakery. Again, it was beyond delicious.
We then headed back to the room and called it a night since we had a big day tomorrow. We were going to ride to the “Highest Motorable Road in the World – Claimed”.

Day 13 Stay: Hotel Mayflower, Leh
Pros: Big Rooms. Helpful Staff.
Cons: Hard to locate. No restaurant.

Few Pointers: Please keep a day for acclimatization in Leh City. Take as much rest as possible on this day and don’t over exert yourself at any point. Climbing 2 flights of stairs had has breathless, so do not take this as joke. Explore the Tibetan Refugee Markets, you are sure to find some very pretty jewelry and souvenirs at very reasonable prices.

Day 14:

Leh – Hunder (150 kms):

We were advised not to start off early since it will be too cold and we won’t be able to enjoy the beauty. When you tell that to a bunch of people who love to sleep, they are bound to start no earlier than 10AM. 😀 Yes, we got all dressed up and loaded the bikes with very little luggage, only the bare essentials needed. The rest was left in the hotel. We started our journey anticipating the worst roads ever. We were quiet obviously apprehensive, we didn’t want to risk any more AMS related incidents and hence everyone who felt the need took a Diamox and the rest gulped down loads of water with garlic cloves. 😛

We finally set of towards the Ultimate Destination of our journey. The little bit of green that Leh had, starts to vanish behind you. It is now only the brown of the magnificent mountains and the blue of the dreamlike sky with an occasional white of the snow peaks. The cotton like clouds moving slowly make mesmerizing shadows on the unrealistic landscape. I could just sit there all day and stare at those clouds, those shadows, smell the earthly freshness in the cool breeze and just get lost in deep thoughts. ❤

The road to a certain point was tarred and we were pleasantly surprised. But soon we were back on the back breaking roads. Every time you turned a corner and looked back, you would realize how much altitude you’ve gained in such a short period of time. You lose sight of Leh and the Stok Kangri Range becomes more prominent.

The first checkpoint you cross is South Pullu where you will need to submit forms with your details. You can find these forms at many stores in Leh City and also at some shops near the checkpoint. The Army then give you a piece of paper with a number written on it which you have to return to them on your way back. I’m assuming this is to ensure no one remains longer than intended beyond the checkpoint. The road after South Pullu deteriorated pretty quickly and we were negotiating between large boulders and unmarked cliffs. Adrenaline pumped into the system, music started playing in my head(The kind that gets you all geared up) and I felt like all of our hard work and preparation over the past few months was finally being paid off. Lost in my thoughts, I see a lot of people up front and I ask Avinash what’s happening and he says “We made it. We are on top of KhardungLa”. I was at first perplexed, “Like seriously, we made it already?” I then saw the board that read “Highest Motorable Road in the World – 18380 Feet”. I couldn’t believe my eyes and I started jumping with glee.

At that moment, there were so many people up there, strangers who I had never met but somehow I felt connected to them, I felt their joy, their sense of accomplishment. At that moment, we were all one. The positive energy at this place, of so many dreams coming true together, was palpable.

After clicking the mandatory photos, we started our journey towards the Next Checkpoint-North Pullu. We had hardly descended a 100 meters when we found snow on the side of the road. Mind you this was the first time any of us had seen actual snow which was within reach. We just had to get down and play with it and that is exactly what we did. 😀

We got stuck a little before North Pullu as they closed the road temporarily for repairs. This happens very often in these terrains. The wait could last from 10 mins to 10 hours and it is antagonizing either way. We were the tailers in our group and hence were the only ones to get stuck. While the good people of Ladakh and the BRO got busy with bulldozers and pavers, we sat there hoping for it to clear up soon. Patience finally paid off after 30 mins. We then reached North Pullu, where the same set of forms need to submitted again. We had our lunch at one of the many shops here, maggi it was again. We took some rest and hydrated some more and then began the last leg of today’s journey.

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The road conditions improved after this. There was tarmac for most part of it which made the rest of the ride a piece of cake. We enjoyed riding here on winding roads and other-worldly beauty around each corner. It was getting harder to believe that a place so beautiful and so cut off from the rest of the world could exist. I was delighted beyond words describable. The Green patches were back and they were a sight for sore eyes. We had lost altitude as quickly as we had gained it. We were somewhere as low as 10000 Feet now. We took leisurely breaks to click photos and soak up every frame of landscape that the mind could capture. We were all awestruck. Near Khalsar village, you can see the Shyok River, muddy and ferocious. Soon we were at one of the highest Cold Desserts in the World. It was a fascinating sight to see Sand Dunes in the middle of the Trans Himalayas. We quickly reached our guest house in Hunder and decided to head out to the Sand Dunes.

This unusual desert is home to Bactrian Camels, they look adorable with two humps on their back. This place was so dreamy, the mountains were gleaming orange due to the setting sun, the far stretching white sand dunes and these beautiful camels. For a nominal fee, you get to go on a ride on one of these and trust me it is not easy to sit there in between their humps. But it is still fun. 😛 We stayed there after the ride enjoying the most beautiful sunset. It was an experience I will never forget.

We then headed over to the Cultural Show put up by the locals and it was a treat to the eyes. All these beautiful women clad in traditional dresses dancing and singing, and you even get to join them at the end. The locals here stole my heart with their warmth and friendliness.

Our guest house was owned by a lovely family and they made sure we felt at home always. And have I mentioned how cute Ladakhi kids are? They have the rosiest cheeks and the cutest smiles. Oh my heart melts just looking at those eyes!

Day 14 Stay: Galaxy Guest House, Hunder
Pros: Home Stay. Sweetest Family. Home Cooked Food.
Cons: None.

Few Pointers: The ride over K-Top is extremely bumpy, so try and get as little luggage as possible. Our hotel owner let us keep all our luggage in one room and didn’t even charge us for it. The self-declaration forms to be submitted at the checkpoints are best brought in Leh, because the stores at the checkpoints may run out of forms and you will inevitably have to return. The villages beyond K-Top are pretty cut off from the rest of the world, so try and do every little thing you can to make their life easy. We shopped for pencils, color pencils, crayons and sketch pens in Manali and gave it to a school teacher in Hunder to distribute to her kids. It is such a joyous thing to do!

DAY 15:

Hunder – Leh (150 kms):

We woke up really early in the morning since we wanted to visit the Diskit Monastery. The short ride at the break of dawn was so refreshing. The Monastery is a beautiful structure perched against the hills overlooking the surreal village of Diskit. We walked up to the main temple to find that the Morning Prayer was in progress and I was delighted. We were welcomed with open arms and we sat through the rest of the prayer where the Monks chanted in unison. That powerful energy transports you into another world. I have no words to explain how it feels, you feel at peace, you feel content, you feel rejuvenated and you feel invincible. So many emotions all together and yet you feel so calm. This is definitely one of the must do things at any monastery.

After the prayer, we lit incense sticks, prayed for a safe return and made our way to the mighty Buddha statue standing tall next door. This 32 meter Maitreya Buddha is a symbol of peace, a blast of color against the stark background of barren mountains. This giant statue is beautifully constructed and it makes even the staunchest non believer bow down in appreciation. This Monastery runs a school as well where you can find adorable little Monks peeping out of classes to catch a glimpse of you. You can volunteer here and interact with the kids as well.

On our way back to the guesthouse, we stopped by at the Military Canteen to have breakfast. Guess what was for breakfast, Gobi Pakode, Samosa and Chai!

Soon after, we started our journey back to Leh. We again stopped on top of KhardungLa and this time clicked even more pictures. We were at ease now since the altitude was not that daunting. The journey too seemed easier than the previous day since our mind was accustomed to it. Somewhere near KhardungLa Top, the duke with the battery problems started troubling us again. Every time the bike idled and switched off, we had to push it and jump start it. After sometime, it stopped responding to that as well and one of us had to tow it for quiet some while. It was such a bummer but it wasn’t anything we couldn’t handle. On the way down to South Pullu, we met a cyclist who was cycling all the way from Manali to K-Top. Talking to him filled us all with immense pride, unexplainable pride. We were ecstatic for him. See I told you, this is a magical place where people actual become human and they appreciate others for their efforts and their determination wholeheartedly.

Back in Leh, some of us went to rest in the room while some of us went to get the duke fixed. The mechanic figured it must be the battery dying and decided to change the battery after which the bike had no problem starting. We were all so relieved that we could go on the next day’s ride tension free.

We then decided to visit the Shanti Stupa. I really wanted to be there for sunset but as luck would have it, we couldn’t make it on time. Instead, we got to enjoy this beauty in solitude, all lit up.

We went down Changspa Road to do some shopping and realized it was a bad idea because no bargaining allowed. You could get all the same pieces at a cheaper rate in Leh Market. This place is so happening that it is like Baga road in Goa. We sat at a quaint restaurant and ate away to glory. 😀

DAY 16:

Leh – Pangong Lake (150 kms):

We started off around 10AM. We had a goal in my mind, reach Pangong by 3PM so that we can enjoy the sunset. We had heard from another rider that there were many Nalas to cross on the way to the lake, so we were prepared mentally. Again there are two checkpoints where you will need to submit the same set of forms again – Karu and Tangtse. Same procedure is followed on this route as well.

It was a beautiful day with the bluest sky and we couldn’t be happier. We were on our way to another dream destination that is right up there on everyone’s wish list.
The road was perfect until Karu after which you need to take a deviation towards ChangLa. The road from there starts to deteriorate. The roads here were not only bad but they had a layer of sand/silt and it was extremely skiddy to ride on. At one such skiddy turn, Avinash hit the brakes pretty hard and I, who was busy taking photos, threw my phone into the air. I screamed for the bike behind us to stop because I didn’t want them to run over my phone. The bike behind us was the Duke with the bad battery and he hit the brakes pretty hard too and stopped. That bike never started again! 😦
We spent a good hour trying to figure out what was wrong, we dismantled the bike, jump started it, towed it, and still nothing worked. It was the middle of the day, sun blazing directly above us. The only source of rebate was the beautiful scenery around. We stopped many groups of bikers asking them for help but there was nothing anyone could do. We had to make the hard decision to either call it a day and tow the bike back to Leh or to leave the bike in the middle of nowhere and continue with 4 bikes. We then remembered some stores which we had passed a while ago where we could leave the bike. So, the bike was towed back to this little settlement just after Karu and we left it there, hoping and praying it will still be there when we return the next day. 😐 It was such a hard decision, especially for the rider to leave his beloved bike behind. But journeys like this make you tough to make improbable decisions.

We were already late by now and had very little hope of making it in time for sunset. Yet, we pushed on and took fewer breaks. But it was so hard, especially with that kind of scenic views. This is one ride you will enjoy for the terrain. The ever changing terrain of this mystical Land.

We stopped soon after ChangLa top to have lunch since we were all famished. We sat near a tiny lake called Tso Ltak and greedily ate maggi and drank soup. It was pretty chilly. I had my first experience with the Ladakhi style toilet here and Oh boy! You have to experience it at least once. 😀

The roads were as bad as ever, we crossed many Nallas, some that were so swift that the pillion had to get down and walk. We then passed by the Army Camp at Durbuk – Tangtse, we could see them training from far off. Even in this remote part of the Country, these men trained like there was no tomorrow only to protect us and our Country.

We soon saw the first Glimpse of Pangong Lake, something that we had waited for with bated breaths. The sun was almost gone by now and the water was a faded shade of blue. Yet, it looked breathtaking. By the time we reached our tent camp, it was dark and we couldn’t venture out to see the lake. We retreated for the day, had the best dinner in a long time and settled outside our tents to star gaze. It felt like I could see the whole universe from up there, twinkling away in the night sky. It is a haunting sight, one that you will long for days after returning from your trip. It was so cold, that all the layers in the world didn’t help. I had to finally give up and head back into the tent.

Day 16 Stay: Camp Redstart, Spangmik
Pros: Excellent Property. Big Tents. Courteous Staff. Amazing Food.
Cons: Check-out Time.

Few Pointers: Leave early and reach before sunset. Take a good camera to capture some of the best shots of the sky spewed with stars. Enjoy the ride, you will find the landscapes en route as mesmerizing as the destination.

DAY 17:

Pangong Lake – Leh (150 kms):

We all woke up because it was suddenly too hot inside the tent, our tent was glowing orange and we all leapt out to see the beautiful lake. I almost cried because I could not believe what my eyes were seeing. The water was a crisp bright blue, I couldn’t take my eyes off of it. It was hypnotizing. We quickly got dressed and headed down to the lake. It was more beautiful, if that was even possible, from up close. It stretched as far as the eyes could see. As we sat there and made stone cairns, played in the freezing water, took long solitary walks, the water kept changing colors. From Cobalt blue to turquoise blue, from baby blue to even baby gray. The contrast of the blue waters and the brown mountains is unbelievably beautiful. It definitely leaves a lasting impression on you and you will crave to get back here.

We soon left after breakfast, back to Leh. The ride was pretty decent. We did meet with a small accident when two of my friends skid on the sand road and fell, but thankfully it was nothing to worry about. They got right up and continued the journey. These kind of journeys fill you with resilience as well. 🙂

We made it to Karu just before lunchtime and Sweet Jesus! Our bike was still there, unharmed. We all breathed a sigh of relief. We towed the bike all the way back to Leh. Our plans of visiting the monasteries en route did not work out well because of this.

After another visit to the mechanic, we realized he wasn’t going to able to fix the issue. We didn’t want to risk it anymore since we had to cross the same 5 High Passes on our way back to Manali. We decided to stay in Leh for another day so that we could ship off the bike back to Bangalore directly. It was a hard decision, one of our ‘soldiers’ was being sent home. 😦

That night we all sat down and celebrated accomplishing our dream journey with a glass of Chhaang, Local Ladakhi Alcoholic Drink.

Few Pointers: Book a tent in Spangmik and you will get to enjoy the solitude that comes with this lake. Any camp near Lukung will be far away from the lake and it will be filled with tourists. Chhaang is not for everyone, I hated the taste. We couldn’t visit some of the most brilliant monasteries but they are worth a visit when you plan your trip.

DAY 18:

Leh:

We stayed in Leh today. Woke up lazily and figured we weren’t going to get much done. I decided to go shopping and I went crazy. Well, so did everybody. I bought so many things that I couldn’t fit them in my bag anymore. Our solution for this? We packed up all our soiled clothes in a nice box and used the reliable services of the Indian Postal System to ship them back to Bangalore. 😛

As I stood there in the middle of Leh Market, wondering when I’ll be back, my heart wept because it did not want to leave. Believe you me, a small part of me stayed back and refuses to return. ❤

DAY 19:

Leh – Keylong (360 kms):

Since Kashmir Valley was still unsafe to cross over, we decided to take the same route on our way back as well. The only difference was now, we were 6 people on 4 bikes instead of 5 bikes. We started our journey before the break of dawn and halted near Upshi for a chai break. We realized that the extra luggage weight on one the bullets was making it wobbly, we didn’t want to risk anything. At that exact moment, a HRTC Bus pulled up next to our bikes. We went and begged the driver to keep our luggage and that we would take it once we reach Keylong. But he refused and said one of you must accompany the luggage. So we decided, this was an experience as well and a friend and I hopped on to the bus. It was a bumpy ride to say the least.

But it was a relief knowing that we could all travel safely now. We passed by the dreaded TanglangLa and we were pretty OK. No signs of AMS so far, all good. But evidently, it was the calm before the storm. Somewhere near the Gata Loops, my friend Prashanth decides to have a seizure, a full blown seizure right in the middle of the remotest region of the Trans Himalayas. Everybody in the bus freaks out, helps me put water one his face and slap him back to consciousness. It was the single most scariest moment in my life. I actually thought I was going to lose him. Apparently, these are common due to deprivation of oxygen to the brain. But who thinks rationally at that point, I just freaked out. Thankfully, one of the good people on the bus handed me a Diamox and I fed it to this boy. It was such a mind boggling experience. After that, I kept waking him up every 10 minutes to check if he was alive. 😐 That is how scared I was.
The rest of the journey back was pretty uneventful, thank god! We all managed to reach Keylong and then Manali and then Delhi, safe and sound.

I got to experience everything on this trip from crazy bike rides through sun and rains, lasting 16-17 hours to bewildered bus rides in the trusting hands of skilled HRTC drivers. It was a journey of a lifetime. A journey that lasted 21 Days and took us through 10 breathtaking States of this Country. Would I do it again? Hell Yeah!! ❤

If it is important to you, you will find a way. If not, you will find an excuse.
– Ryan Blair